Why am I being asked not to grab a dog by the collar or scruff?
Roughly 20% of all dog:human bites occur in the home when a family member attempts to grab their dog’s collar. Very few dogs are conditioned to like collar grabs. Many are given good reason to dislike them. You are often working with adult dogs with largely unknown behavior histories. Long story short, collar grabs are usually unanticipated, uncomfortable, and unconsensual. Scruffing is not an acceptable action for a human to do to a dog. It is a violation of their species by ours and they would be well within their right to bite you.
Why am I being asked to praise dogs when they are doing things I want them to do?
Because it is dangerous to have treats in the play yard, the only positive reinforcement we have at our disposal is verbal praise and petting. Positive reinforcement is basically adding or giving something the dog wants or likes to increase the likelihood of the behavior they are currently doing. Currently means before they decide to do something they often do. Currently means after something they were doing that you don’t like STOPS. CURRENTLY means CURRENTLY. Sometimes it seems like the dog is doing nothing which doesn’t seem too impressive on its face but “nothing” is the absence of an unwanted behavior and is preferable to the alternative. Strategic praise will give them more reason to do what you want and will help build and preserve the human/animal bond.
Why am I being asked not to pet more than one dog at a time or one dog while another is directly in my/another dog’s space?
Dogs can and will exhibit resource guarding and possessive aggression toward one another in regard to humans that dote on them. When more than one dog is present in front of you, remove your hands calmly, ignore them, and walk away to become neutral. Petting both of them simultaneously doesn’t translate to equal treatment and will not prevent competition over you.
Why am I being asked to “box out” a dog who is pursuing the water hose?
Dogs that are fixating on the hose NOT gnashing their teeth at the stream should be boxed out like a basketball player on defense. This is where you put your back to the dog, stick your rear end out, and stay in front of the dog, moving your feet accordingly so they can’t reach the stream. You can also do this to confident, sociable dogs that invade your space in the yard or nuisance bark at other dogs. Dogs that DO gnash their teeth will need to be inside or put away when you are using the hose. This is high-level fixation and the likelihood they may redirect onto someone else is higher.
Why am I being asked to bring my poop can out away from the corner and place my back to the corner while I discard poop into the can?
This enables you to see what all of the dogs in your yard are doing at one time. When you have your back to the dogs you cannot see interactions occurring, making it less likely for you to be able to interrupt problematic ones. Put the can back in the corner when you are done. You should also have your back to the corner when you are spraying your scoop.
Why am I being asked not to pull dogs by the lead around their neck when they refuse to move?
In addition to being unconsensual, this applies too much tension on the dog’s airway and can cause irreversible damage to their trachea. This is just strangulation by any other name. This will likely make the dog even less cooperative over time, more avoidant, more fearful, and will increase the likelihood of a bite. On the flip side, if you are handling a dog in the aisle on a slip lead and they begin to pull so hard that there is no slack in the lead just let go. Do not counter force with force with a lead around their neck.
See trainer about treat lures, inviting body language, touch targeting, leash reverberation, etc.
What is a double lead and why am I being asked to utilize a double lead if/when escorting a dog to their kennel on lead?
Double lead (clip leash attached to a slip lead) enables you to place the dog in their kennel and remove their leash without having to place your hand near their neck. This method reduces the risk of a bite due to the distance it creates between you and the dog, making it unnecessary to enter their kennel. It also applies less force due to where the clip is attached to the lead, compared to that of which is gathered in your whole fist.
What is a lead wrap aka body wrap and why/when am I being asked to utilize one?
A lead wrap is a makeshift harness that can be formed by taking the slack of your slip lead and bringing it behind both “armpits” and feeding it back up through the lasso part of the lead which rests on their chest as opposed to around their neck. Lead wraps are good for determined pullers if you are going to hold their lead while escorting them inside the building.
In any situation you are inclined to or “MUST” pull a dog with your lead (between curtains, bathing room) you will want to use a lead wrap. (See notes about airway and trachea damage.)
Take caution when doing lead wraps with dogs you don’t know. I don’t recommend lead wrapping a dog above FAS Level 0 but I will personally do it in my capacity as a trainer with Levels 1,2,and possibly 3.
Dogs that have wide girths will need to be lead wrapped with our 8 foot black/blue striped lead. If you do not have access to it, you can always attach your clip leash to the handle of your slip lead to make a longer lead to accommodate wraps for bigger dogs.
What is contact-free handling and why/when am I being asked to use it?
Contact-free handling is exactly what it sounds like. It means you get a dog from one place to another in back of house without making any contact with their body using your hands or any equipment. You’ll want to use treat lures (see notes on food allergies and sensitivities) and body language over urging and being overbearing. The most common form of contact-free handling I utilize is preemptively blocking the path past their open door with a PVC/canvas cot on its side when I want them to go inside their cabin. Good for dogs above FAS Level 2.
Why am I being asked to position the gate across from my play yard (only in Yard 2 and Yard 3) so it forms a right angle (aka “open” with my yard gate?
When a dog needs to leave the yard to go to their cabin for a rest or in case of an emergency or fight you will want to be able to send a dog into the aisle corresponding with your yard quickly without fiddling around with another gate. If the gate opposite your yard gate is parallel to (aka “closed”) your yard gate and you send a dog out, they will run along the main aisle fence line of the neighboring yard, prompting fence fighting and creating a higher redirection risk.
Why am I being asked to try multiple substances (accounting for food allergies and sensitivities) before “pilling” a dog?
Pilling refers to the act of manually prying a dog’s jaws open, placing the pill in the back of their throat, clasping your hand around their muzzle, and waiting for them to swallow. This is highly unconsensual and increases the likelihood that you will be bit. Cream cheese is my go-to. (See above note about food allergies and sensitivities.) I just cake it around the pill and toss it directly on the floor of their cabin, walk out of sight for 2-3 seconds and come back to see if they’ve taken it. Holding it out to them or putting it on a spoon can make them more suspicious and can psych them out. Never pill a dog before speaking to the trainer if on-site or a manager if not on-site. This is a very last resort and should not be executed unless all other options have been exhausted. See trainer for other options.
Why am I being asked to refrain from attaching personalized tags to the dogs’ collars when they are present in their kennels?
Entering a dog’s cabin and immobilizing them is problematic because they are essentially trapped in a box and this can often initiate their fight or flight response. If they can’t flee, they are more likely to fight. It’s a compromising position in which to put yourself and the dog and increases the likelihood of a bite. Tag dogs during large group, small group, (see notes about how to remain neutral and avoid competition over you as a resource in the yard) or give a brief private potty opportunity to accomplish this.
Why am I being asked not to place a cot in a dog’s cabin or attempt to mop it while they are present inside?
For many of the same reasons as listed in the previous line item plus a scary object moving toward them.
Why am I being asked to bring a legless cot into the yard when I am switching out a coworker or joining them in the play yard?
This is the only practical means we have of preventing the dogs from jumping on your person when you enter the yard, which is when it is most likely and most prevalent.
You are not thrusting it into the dogs, you are simply holding it in front of you and moving it accordingly as they try to jump on you from one side or the other. When the jumping subsides, place the cot back in the aisle or if you are outside, tuck it behind the poop can until you go back inside. Please try not to drop cots from a considerable height. Try standing on your tip-toes when placing cots over the fence back in the aisle.
Why am I being asked not to grab dogs engaged in a fight or get between them physically?
This can cause injury to yourself and cause injury to the dogs that otherwise could have been an inhibited bite (basically the dog equivalent of a pulled punch) or just a bunch of noise and gnashing. You can also exacerbate injuries by tearing their skin as you pull a dog off or away. Make as much noise as you possibly can from ANY source to try to interrupt the fight as you head to the water hose. Your goal is to get as close to their face as possible with the hose and spray it into their nose/mouth.
Why am I being asked not to reprimand or scold a dog who is growling, lip snarling, or who has “checked” me or another dog?
These forms of communication help inform the recipient that what they are doing is making the dog uncomfortable and are attempts to avoid further escalation of aggression. They are saying, “Please stop, or else.” As it pertains to us as handlers it tells us we need to stop what we are trying to accomplish, slow down, modify our approach if our goal is necessary, or possibly come back to it later. If this occurs dog:dog in the yard then lightly spray the legs of the dog not respecting boundaries. You can spray the other dog if you absolutely need to but don’t scold them for their attempts to avoid conflict. It is when these warnings are reprimanded and the dog is informed they’re not permitted to give warnings that they start “biting out of the blue”.
Why am I being asked to have treats (see notes on food allergies and sensitivities) readily available when I conduct individual enrichment services?
Treats can be useful for posing a dog for the enrichment photos or promoting interest in a prop, but more importantly you will want to have treats on you in the event a dog doesn’t want to let go of a toy or item during the session. It’s a good idea to have some medium tier treats as well as high value treats in case the dog begins to resource guard or you become concerned they will ingest the item. Remain calm and don’t pressure or reprimand the dog. Call for backup immediately. You can scatter as many treats as you need to prevent ingestion. Attempting to pry their mouth open, once again, is likely to result in a bite so it should be a very last resort. If you use the above strategies and keep your cool, it should help you from reaching the decision between being bit and a foreign body surgery, or both.
Why am I being asked not to reach my hand out to a dog to which I am a stranger?
This increases the risk of a bite. If you are going to hold your hand out at all, do so to the side at your hip or lower. If the dog doesn’t approach, they are declining your invitation to interact. If this is the case, do not move your hand into their space to force interaction or force them to tolerate touch. This actually applies whether you met them today or have known them for years. Dogs not consenting to interaction and touch are good candidates for contact-free handling. I have and will continue to use double lead with some dogs like this if necessary but it’s not where I’d recommend starting.
Why am I being asked to wait until someone who is already escorting a dog checking in/out, a grooming dog, training dog, enrichment dog, or any other dog en route through the aisle is clear of my area before opening a kennel to collect a bowl, for example?
The dog being escorted generally has the right of way. It’s similar to someone being in a parking spot attempting to back up. The motorists already in motion do not yield to the parked car, unless indicated by the motorist in motion. The dog can dash out of their kennel and just like that you have a conflict in the narrow aisle which is a nightmare scenario. If this does happen you should have a PVC/canvas cot nearby to put between them instead of your limbs.
Why am I being asked to cover kennel fronts of reactive, fearful, or hyper-aroused dogs with two PVC/canvas cots?
Obscuring their sight line will often dull or prevent their barrier reactivity toward dogs passing by in the aisle. The cots will prevent them from getting a hold of each other, as the gaps are large enough for muzzles to fit through. It reduces the stimuli the dog’s brain is experiencing, gives them some privacy, and makes it somewhat less likely they will engage with anything outside of their cabin. Do not put dogs like this in cabins that have poles (where gates latch) in front of them. This prevents two cots sitting flush against the cabin front. We use XL metal cots to cover XL cabins but we do not use metal cots to cover anywhere else in the kennel area, except when the dog being covered urinates through the front of his kennel. If you use metal cots elsewhere in the kennel, they must be bungeed.
Why am I being asked to just move out of the way when a dog has already taken the opportunity to door dash past me with so much intention I feel like I need to grab them, body block them, or pin them against a cabin?
If they are that determined to get past you, oftentimes this means they are scared. If you exert your body in such a manner upon theirs in this scenario you are more likely to get bit. Just reset and start the process of cabin-ing them up again as consensually as possible. You can even give them a super quick private potty opportunity depending on status of the yard. Use treat lures (see notes regarding food allergies and sensitivities) if they find it motivating. Double lead might also be helpful with dogs like this because you can shut and latch their door and still be able to remove their lead from outside their cabin. The more you struggle, fight, and force a dog to do something the harder it will be to accomplish the protocol the next time around or the next handler around.
Why am I being asked to not touch a dog who is jumping on me?
The majority of our clients don’t want their dogs to jump on them or other people. They will need ALL of our help with that. Touch of any kind is likely to reinforce jumping, which is an attention-seeking behavior. Catching their paws and placing them on the ground, shoving them off of you, and petting them when jumping are not advisable. They want attention and they get attention through these actions. DO NOT knee a dog in the chest or even leave your knee out. A misplaced knee can fracture a dog’s sternum. Here’s a simple guiding principle: If their paws are on you, your paws shouldn’t be on them. Turn your back and walk away with purpose to discourage the behavior. If the behavior persists, turn your back to the dog, stick your rear end out and walk into the dog’s space and keep walking until they stop or go away, similar to what was described regarding boxing out water hose enthusiasts. Considering you are on camera at all times, this looks better to the client and doesn’t give the appearance of bullying or intimidation, which certainly isn’t the goal. Remember you can always praise when the dog is NOT jumping. You can ask for a sit but don’t ask over and over again.
Why am I being asked to leave a dog in their kennel (and communicate when I have done so) if they are refusing to leave their cabin?
You can try placing some treats toward the front of their kennel to get them to approach the opening of their kennel but if they don’t exit on their own, reaching or stepping into their kennel will increase the risk of a bite. So long as you communicate with your team, you may or may not be able to leave their kennel door open to enable them to wander out on their own.
Why am I being asked to pull my gate in toward me/my yard instead of pushing it out toward the aisle when receiving or (more likely) sending dogs from the yard?
When you push the gate away from you, it creates a bigger gap and a greater opportunity for the dogs to get past you into the aisle. Multiple dogs in the aisle is hazardous because it is close quarters with limited mobility and resource guarding potential is greater e.g. prepped foods down to contest over, cabin doors left ajar (that shouldn’t be) can result in dogs entering the same kennel, etc.
Why am I being asked to use a platform from Yard 1 (as opposed to the metal ramp) when I have a dog that is hesitant about getting into the tub?
The metal ramp is too narrow for sizable dogs and unstable and no one has been conditioned to it. Forcing them up onto it will set a very poor tone for the service you’re about to conduct.
Why am I being asked to have treats readily available when performing a bathing or grooming service?
A lot of dogs struggle with various aspects of these services. Using food (see notes on food allergies and sensitives) to lure, distract and to pair actions with outcomes is a very useful tool. This will often make your objective easier to achieve and can often reduce risk of a bite. You will want to rule out any history of resource guarding . Once you give up possession of your food substance or source, for all intents and purposes, it is now theirs so you will want to be confident you can touch them while they are engaging with a licky mat, for example. It is not recommended to use food for a cooperative care service with a dog displaying FAS above Level 2.
Note: Recently _______ was growling and uncooperative with the team upon attempting to lift him into the tub. I used some pieces of hot dog to lure him up and he immediately leapt up into the tub. Sometimes the fastest way is the most consensual way.
Haste ≠ speed
Why am I being asked not to scold a dog when they squirm, yelp, growl, or check me when performing a bathing or grooming service?
As covered previously, you’re essentially telling them they are not allowed to communicate that they are scared or uncomfortable and give you the courtesy of warning you before they actually bite you. Continue the service if you can change your approach or give them a break and move onto the next dog, but do not suppress these efforts to communicate and deescalate. If you do, you are likely to create a ticking time bomb that no longer ticks.
Why am I being asked not to yell at the dogs?
Yelling names or reprimands at the dogs in a punitive manner in any non-emergency scenario or non-active fight with the intent of stopping a behavior is not advisable.
Yelling, a form of positive punishment can harm the human-animal bond and can “poison” (basically this means cementing a negative association with or an aversion to something) their name, you as a person, or the entire environment in which these experiences take place. This often results in the dogs avoiding you even more and listening to and cooperating with you even less. Yelling adds more stress to an already stressful environment in which a lot of dogs find it difficult to relax and some even to cope. Being subjected to this creates an unstable and unpredictable environment for them. Yelling functions as a group punisher. All dogs (and all people) are affected simultaneously when you yell, regardless of who is being addressed. This can be confusing, frustrating, and result in learned helplessness, meaning the dog learns nothing they do or don’t do can prevent this stimulus (yelling) from being added to the environment. There isn’t a single dog that feels relief when you shout at another dog to be quiet, even when they have been hearing another dog barking incessantly.
A note on hands:
Ask yourself,
“Am I petting this dog?”
“Am I playing with this dog?”
“Am I dressing/undressing or grooming this dog?”
“Am I lifting this dog? (Into the tub, for example)
“Am I delivering a treat to this dog?”
If your answer is no, then 9 times out of 10 you shouldn’t be touching the dog and you should treat your hands as if they’re radioactive.
Justin Alexander 🐾
Certified Professional Canine Trainer
CPDT-KA
Fear Free Certified Professional
LIMA Advocate
